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    Type: textile
    Ethnic Group: Kuba (Bakuba)
    Country: Democratic Republic of Congo (Zaire)
    ECU Number: L0110-A
    Description: These two Kuba cut-pile textiles have geometric designs in shades of brown and cream. Known as Kasai velvets, they are woven of raffia palm fiber that has been soaked and beaten to create the velvet-like texture. Once the cloth had been woven by men on a small loom, women embroidered it with designs that transmitted moral lessons, myths, or information about family history. Such cloths were used to cover the kingÕs throne or placed under his feet, or used as dowries or burial cloths.
    Significance researched to date: The Kasai velvets, or Kuba cut-pile textiles, are some of the most remarkable achievements in African weaving. These textiles were done in the traditional manner, woven by men on a small loom. The raffia palm fiber was dyed with red camwood and black and yellow dyes. It was soaked and beaten to give a silky, velvet- like finish. Thin bundles of raffia fiber were inserted under the cloth, and the ends were cut with a small knife. After the cloth was woven, women embroidered the edges of designs with contrasting colors to bing out the forms. The interlocking diagonal Kuba patterns followed strict canons and were usually known and passed down only by women. Designs transmitted moral lessons, myths, or information about family history. Numerous variations from simple Kuba patterns exist. A personÕs rank was measured by the novelty of the pattern, skill in execution, and labor expended. Kings created patterns at the onset of their reign. Not intended for clothing, these valuable pieces were used in the kingÕs court to cover the throne or the ground under the kingÕs ÒsacredÓ feet. Similar pieces served as dowries and burial cloths. Small squares of plain raffia cloth were used as currency and exchanged in marital contracts and legal settlements. (Anderson, 36, Gillon, 286, Grimes, 65, Hultgren, 93, Notter, 50)